Anvil Mounting

Don Glover asked:

What is the height of the anvil top from the floor?

Rich,

I found your web site quit interesting, in fact very interesting. 

One of your pictures is of an anvil mounted on a log.   I have an old FISHER anvil pat. April 24, 1877.  There are also large numbers cast on the side 1889.

I have logs but what is the height of the anvil top from the floor?  Is there a rule of thumb for the height.  My Dad had a rule of thumb for a table top vise and it was; the top of the vise should be at elbow height.    

Thanks for any help

Don E.

Rick Strobel responded:

Hi Don..I cannot itelligently answer your question(s).  Anvil height had to
be like your Dad said.  Now this is interesting and I found this info from a
blacksmith around here.
    Ya think the ring of an anvil is intriguing?  Think about a blacksmith
having to listen to this 24/7/365?  I can relate now to it being somewhat
bothersome.  To alleviate this, rest the anvil on a bed of sand imbedded
into the log/stand and fastening the anvil with chains, not "U"
nails/spikes..the ring is totally elimated.  Not cool to  us, but I'll bet
it meant a lot to the ole blacksmith's.
    Wish I could help more...try www.google.com and crank in anvils or
blacksmith anvils..you'll get a lot of hits...even how to build an anvil...
Take Care,
Rick

Andy Glines suggested:
With you standing up straight and your arm (the one you hammer with) hanging 
down to your side and your hand made into a fist your knuckles should touch 
the top of the anvil.  I forget the source but remember the info as I am 
slowly trying to set up a forge to use in my own shop.

Arnie Fero wrote

Two comments...  A book that I have on setting up your blacksmith shop
says that you should setup the anvil so that with your arm at your side
and your fist clenched, your knuckles just graze the top surface of the
anvil.

With regard to the "ring" of an anvil, its a very important feature of a
good anvil and something a working smith WOULD NOT eliminate.  A good
anvil that's properly setup does ring when struck, but more importantly,
the hammer rebounds from the surface.  That rebound returns energy
reducing the effort to raise the hammer for the next blow.  This allows
the smith to work expending less energy and it also results in less wear &
tear on his arm, wrist, elbow, etc.  No working smith would ever deaden an
anvil.

Granted, before the advent of hearing protection smiths did experience
some hearing loss.  Some also lost sight in one or both eyes from not
wearing safery glasses, lost toes from not wearing steel-toe boots, etc.
But times change...

Many clubs are now incorporating a blacksmith into the show program.  At
Fort Allen we have a resident smith who works in a fantastic building at
our West Overton showgrounds.  There are 4 forges, numerous anvils and
other "tools of the trade."  He also conducts weekly lessons in the art
and science of iron pounding.

On Saturday May 10th we're having a
"hammer-in" where our resident smith is joined by a half-dozen other
professional blacksmiths.  They ply their trade for the day and late in
the afternoon there's an auction of the items they've made.  This event is
a lot of fun, really educational and heavily attended.  We have the
normal engines, tractors, and farm equipment in operation as well.  Check
the GEM Show Directory for contact information and directions.

See ya,  Arnie

Arnie Fero
Pittsburgh, PA
feroa@venus.pgh.wec.com