Steam & Engine of Australia

 

Belt Dressing

When working your engine driving some machinery with a flat belt you may run into slip problems. Firstly check that your tension is ok (see seperate article) then if you still have a problem you might consider one of the following weird and wonderful suggestions from the SEL for belt dressing...

From: George Best gsb@plaza.ds.adp.com

I've got a friend that uses Coca-Cola as belt dressing.  Some of his engines
have a flat belt that runs the flyball governor.  If the belt starts to slip
he just pours some coke on the belt.  Works for him.  You just need to watch
your coke if you're drinking one and not sit it down within his reach if his
belt starts slipping ;-)  He's a beer drinker, but I haven't seen him pour
is beer on a belt yet, just my cokes.

George Best

From: Edward Tabor edward.tabor@dol.net Soap works well as belt dressing. I use liquid Joy on my mower when the belts slip, they slip slightly worse until the soap gets tacky, then they grab well. Ed

From: "John Hammink." johnh@multiweb.nl Sometimes at our major shows I 'm grinding six bushels corn cobs for the spectators, everyone likes it and the children at most when they may put some cobs into the grinder (safety first ofcourse). It happens now and than that the belt slips and I found out that when I throw a small hand grinded feed between the belt and the engine pulley the belt graps for a few hours more. John H.

From: farmer robinson@svs.net A John Deere combine I used to have had a flat belt drive from the engine to the separator. When it sat there running in a cloud of soybean dust and pubescent fuzz it would get really slick very often. I had used about everything on it over the years. The best was a light brown rosin stick. The black stick was OK. Plain old asphalt foundation paint worked very well. I have been known to roll up a piece of plain (no mineral) roll roofing to use as a stick. Years ago I used to melt down the tar sealer from junk battery cases. RTV silicon gasket stuff was only fair as was shellac. Tung oil was a little better. Permatex high tack isn't bad. The "V" belt drive on the grain tank was the other extreme, it was prone to coast when the tank was empty and run grain out on the ground. For it I carried a plastic bottle of baby powder to keep the belt from dragging. -- farmer Central Indiana USA

From: Richard Allen dini_44@ablewise.com Sugar and pectin, besides being wonderfully sticky for curing slipping belts, also are some of the best organic reducing agents around and work great for fluxing the lead or babbit pot prior to casting bullets or crank bearings. Make sure to ignite the smoke just like when using wax. Oh, I almost forgot, they also work great for sweetening and thickening jelly and jam.

From: Germoamer@aol.com McMaster Carr carries belt dressing, spray or liquid in their catalogue. I also think our local wholesale hardware still carries it. I need to go by their for some other things if you want me to check or purchase some. Thanks for the continued spout search. Tom Schmutz

From: alanb2@webtv.net (Alan Bowen) I just bought a can of spray type belt dressing at K-Mart. That would be a good place to look for us US folks. Is there an OZ-Mart or a UK-Mart, ect ??? [Editor: We have K-Mark down here too you know...]

From: "Brian and Melissa Campbell" brianc@worldaccessnet.com This will still get some glares from the ladies in the club when we bring it up, but we had a belt slipping at our loacal county fair show. The ladies were demonstrating strawberry jam making in the kitchen so we snitched a little and it worked great. FWIW Brian Campbell

From: BLCKSMTH blcksmth@wcnet.org Believe it or not, automatic transmission fluid works for belt dressing. I was skeptical until I tried it. Bob Willman [Editor: Don't use this one on rubber or rubber coated leather belts - the rubber will go soft and fall about as the AT fluid eats it!]

From: ChaplainHu@aol.com I think I remember using beeswax when grinding feed in the cold of winter. Hugh Atwell


This article is part of the Stationary Internal Combustion Engine Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ). This series is a combination of my views and knowledge and the views and knowledge of other people - most of them members of the Stationary Engine Mailing List (More info on ATIS). Those articles which were written by others are © Copyright to the author. Those articles written by myself are © Copyright to Paul Pavlinovich.

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Disclaimer:It should be noted that the information given in this document is considered to be good advice by the people who give it, however any legal liability lies strictly with the reader. The contributors are hobbiests not professionals.

 
Last modified Sunday, 20-Jul-2003 15:28:00 BST
 
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