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Calculating Belt TensionJohn Culp a member of the SEL had a need to generate power at his home and had a convenient diesel engine and wanted to belt it up to an alternator - he had a few belt slipping problems and too the rescue came the SEL... Thanks to Richard Allen and "Farmer".Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 20:54:06 -0800 (PST) From: Richard AllenTensioning a belt to the amount needed to prevent slippage and at the same time making sure it is not over-tightened can be easily calculated IF a few things are known first. Belt tension is real important to prevent belt wear from being too loose and to prevent premature bearing failure from being too tight. Another important aspect is to make sure the correct RPM is maintained, which is of utmost importance when running an alternator for household electricity generation. If the horse power or wattage being transmitted by the belt is known, and the Revolutions Per Minute of the pulleys are known, then the belt can be tensioned using a mechanic's torque wrench on the SMALLER of the two pulleys. The reason the smaller pulley is used is because it will almost always start to slip before the larger pulley will.
Two of the general mathematical formulas for engines and motors are as follows:
We need to find Torque when tensioning a belt, so the one formula has to be re-expressed as:
So when the belt for the alternator is adjusted, the small pulley in the transmission will have 6.1 pounds-feet torque applied to it by hand with a mechanic's torque wrench, and the belt tensioned until the pulley no longer slips in the belt. It would be wise to go a little higher than 6.1 pounds-feet because there are other minor factors involved with slippage that have to be compensated for, too, like the belt getting hot. This kind of calculation is important where adjusting belts is not practical or safe while the equipment is running. Hope this helps. Work and play safely,-------Richard Allen
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 13:37:06 -0800 From: farmerThis is old hat to most of you guys but I thought I would post it for those new to "belting up". I made a quick sketch and scanned it rather than get brain strain trying to think of the right words:
A. is simply two pulleys and a belt. B. shows how much more surface contact you can get especially on the smaller pulley. C. shows how you can actually lose contact area with the idler in the wrong spot. Of course the idler whether fixed or spring mounted should normally go on the slack side of the belt. An idler isn't a free ride and will ad slightly to the overall load but will allow you to increase traction significantly without having to increase belt tension to a near failure level. -- farmer Central Indiana USA Small Farm Shop e-mail list at: http://www.egroups.com/group/Smallfarmshop Friendly new members welcome... "Strive for- Moderation- Tolerance- A mind open to new ideas... Your life will be richer if not your purse." This article is part of the Stationary Internal Combustion Engine Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ). This series is a combination of my views and knowledge and the views and knowledge of other people - most of them members of the Stationary Engine Mailing List (More info on ATIS). Those articles which were written by others are © Copyright to the author. Those articles written by myself are © Copyright to Paul Pavlinovich.
Got comments?If you would like to comment on any part of the FAQ please do so by using theDisclaimer:It should be noted that the information given in this document is considered to be good advice by the people who give it, however any legal liability lies strictly with the reader. The contributors are hobbiests not professionals. |
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