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ElectrolysisThe process of electrolysis has been discussed on the SEL many times. The idea is to use electricity to excite a medium which strips rust. The system is as simple as having an anode, a cathode, a car battery (or battery charger), an ammeter (essential) and putting the whole lot in water. Your part you want to derust is the cathode, the anode is something made of iron that you don't mind losing as it will lose ions to the cathode during the process. You could use a big iron nail, a horseshoe, or anything else lying around.Jim asked: Someone mentioned using Arm & Hammer washing soda to provide the sodium carbonate. My question is: is this the regular A & H detergent or is it a different product identified specifically as "A & H washing soda" I can't seem to find anything that doesn't contain a lot of enzymes, surfactants and such. In my initial trial I used sodium hydroxide (lye) which worked pretty well but haven't had any luck on finding any products that contain mainly sodium carbonate.Richard Allen dini_44@ablewise.com responded: First of all, when mixing and using chemicals like these, use eye protection like the work shop or lawn mowing goggles you can buy at K Mart. Second, lets get the right names for the products available. Pure sodium carbonate is called soda ash, and is very dangerous because it will boil water when mixed with it, and even make a steam explosion. Washing soda is the hydrated form of sodium carbonate (called sodium carbonate decahydrate, it has TEN water molecules attached to one sodium carbonate molecule!), and is 5/8 water by weight even though it is a dry powder. The product you found at the store labeled as detergent is not washing soda, although it has some in it. Washing soda is a mixture of mostly sodium carbonate decahydrate with some sodium sesquicarbonate and sodium bicarbonate in it. Go to the grocery store or supermarket and read the labels on the washing supplies for walls and floors. Washing soda is sold under the names of stuff like Spic 'N Span, TSP Brand washing compound, and 20 Mule Team washing soda (not borax). If you can't find anything that is 90%-100% washing soda (sodium carbonate decahydrate) and/or sodium sesquicarbonate, just get some plain old Arm & Hammer baking soda. Take 0.6 times (about 5/8) as much baking soda as the amount of washing soda called for in the electrolyte recipe, add just enough water to make it soupy, heat it for a few minutes while it fizzes, then add it to the rest of the water. Baking soda is sodium bicarbonate, which decomposes with a little heat and water into carbon dioxide gas and ! sodium carbonate decahydrate. In fact, save yourself some time and try the baking soda without boiling it first, I think it may work just fine, just make sure the amount is only 0.6 times (about 5/8) as much as the amount of washing soda called for. The ultimate end results you get using washing soda are identical to using lye. The lye works somewhat faster but is very much more dangerous to the user.Charles Balyeat responded further kerogas@the-i.net: Its so easy , you cant screw it up . Just add A& H baking soda , stir , and watch the ammeter on the charger .Once you use the stuff for a while it becomes quite the mess but all those black metal particles floating around seem to aid in conductivity ...do they ? ( Looks like used motor oil , but with a scum on top ) . I havent changed my water in a year . only adding as it evaporates . And it cleans faster and hotter now than when it was new. This article is part of the Stationary Internal Combustion Engine Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ). This series is a combination of my views and knowledge and the views and knowledge of other people - most of them members of the Stationary Engine Mailing List (More info on ATIS). Those articles which were written by others are © Copyright to the author. Those articles written by myself are © Copyright to Paul Pavlinovich.
Got comments?If you would like to comment on any part of the FAQ please do so by using theDisclaimer:It should be noted that the information given in this document is considered to be good advice by the people who give it, however any legal liability lies strictly with the reader. The contributors are hobbiests not professionals. |
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Last modified Sunday, 20-Jul-2003 15:28:00 BST |
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