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Pulley RemovalQ:How in the world do you get a crankshaft pulley off of an old Farmalltractor (ie: Cub, A, C, etc)...or maybe any old tractor?? The book says remove it with a "suitable" puller. Guess my puller isn't "suitable" because I've broken the last three pulleys I've tried to get off that way. Today I heated up the pulley to not quite red hot, applied pressure (a lot) to the puller and broke another pulley. What am I missing? *Maybe this is the reason so many old tractors end up as parts tractors--stupid contrary hair-tearing rusty old iron that doesn't deserve to live!? John John Wilkens jwilkens@eoni.com A:I think that the first thing you need is extreme patients! And adding towhat Brad said if you can purchase a bearing splitter and place it behind the pulley, that will make it possible to pull from the center, preventing excessive pressure on the outside area. But remember you can not rush removal of a rusted part. I have spent more than a day removing large couplings on heavy equipment Clarke L. McGee mcgam@acnet.net A:Sounds like you are trying to use a two or three leg jaw type puller, whichputs the pressure on the outer rim of the pulley, correct? These are really not suitable for any but the most lightly stuck pulley. The appropriate puller should bolt onto the centre hub somehow, so that the pull is as close to the shaft as possible. You can make your own using some heavy plate and a few bolts. If needs be you could even drill and tap three holes in the pulley hub if you can get at it and they aren't already there. There needs to then be a centre 'draw bolt', which bears on the end of the cranksahft. Tighten the bolt so that there is a reasonable amount of pressure and if nothing moves then rap the end of the bolt sharply with a heavy hammer. This should break the grip and if not then apply the heat and repeat. Regards Brad Brad_Soward@onaustralia.com.au A:Young-san built and took some pictures of a device that isexactly as you describe. There is a close-up pic to give you an idea of the tool, and a far-away pic to give you some perspective on the thickness of the plate. http://engines.rustyiron.com/Bill/sakai.html Rob Skinner www.rustyiron.com www.wapa.us A:No experience with Farmalls, but are you applying the force (puller legs) asclosely as possible to the shaft? Right on the hub? (3-legged puller is better than 2-legs.) If the force is a bit farther away from the centre, (where there might be tapped puller holes) the pulley can tend to dish or "fold" and bite. Apart from that, I've had plenty of cases where initial pressure did not seem to be doing much, but if the strain were left on for some time (overnight, even), she'd later go "Bang" and pop off. The trick is to apply just that little bit less pressure than what it takes to bust it then leave her sit! You probably know all that. JW jacknade2@bigpond.com ... This article is part of the Stationary Internal Combustion Engine Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ). This series is a combination of my views and knowledge and the views and knowledge of other people - most of them members of the Stationary Engine Mailing List (More info on ATIS). Those articles which were written by others are © Copyright to the author. Those articles written by myself are © Copyright to Paul Pavlinovich.
Got comments?If you would like to comment on any part of the FAQ please do so by using theDisclaimer:It should be noted that the information given in this document is considered to be good advice by the people who give it, however any legal liability lies strictly with the reader. The contributors are hobbiests not professionals. |
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Last modified Sunday, 03-Aug-2003 08:22:15 BST |
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