FAQ Start a stationary engine - HOWTO

Lubrication

Enough fuel

General Tips

Specific Engines or Types of Engine

Rosebery vertical (same for 2, 3, 4, and 6 HP models)

To run on petrol

1. Open the main needle valve 2 turns
2. Oil the shaft where the hand crank fits on and inside of the crank handle
3. Fit the crank handle
4. Hold the crank handle with your thumb folded in (so it does not get ripped off if the engine fires backwards)
5. Slowly crank the engine while holding your hand over the air intake until fuel runs out of the intake
6. Crank the engine several times quickly and she should start firing, immediately it fires pull off the crank
7. Slowly close the needle valve until the engine fires evenly and there is no more black smoke from the exhaust

If you want to run the engine on kerosene, modify the starting procedure so that

1. Fill the starting bowl on the mixer with petrol
2. Open the starting needle valve 2 turns
3. Oil the shaft where the hand crank fits on and inside of the crank handle
4. Fit the crank handle
5. Hold the crank handle with your thumb folded in (so it does not get ripped off if the engine fires backwards)
6. Slowly crank the engine while holding your hand over the air intake until fuel runs out of the intake
7. Crank the engine several times quickly and she should start firing, immediately it fires pull off the crank
8. Slowly close the throttle valve until the engine fires evenly and there is no more black smoke from the exhaust
9. Once the engine is good and hot, let it run until the petrol in the starting bowl runs out
10. Then close the starting needle valve
11. Open the main needle valve 2 turns
12. Once the engine starts to fire again, slowly close the needle valve until the engine fires evenly and there is no more black smoke from the exhaust

Lister LD series diesel (similar for LD, LT, and ST models)

1. Open the main fuel valve at the base of the tank (if you have one, not all of them do - I think they were added post factory?)
2. Open the compression release lever on each cylinder
3. Turn the fuel pump control to the Start position (to do this, you have to pull it out and turn it anti-clockwise over the "stop" then let it go back in)
4. Open the throttle about 1/4 way
5. Oil the crank shaft and inside of the crank handle
6. Crank at about 10 rpm until you hear the injectors start to "spurt" (they make a creaking noise)
7. Speed up your cranking and pull off the crank
8. Quickly flip any one of the compressor levers over to compression before the engine slows down, if the engine starts to fire, flip the other levers (if you have more than one cylinder!) over to compression - do NOT continue to run the engine with any of the levers open or you might loose a valve and piston!
9. After the engine warms up, turn the fuel pump lever to run

Commando two stroke

1. Open the needle valve one turn
2. Engage the "kick crank" and push the engine slowly through compression with your hand over the air intake a couple of times re-engaging the kick crank each time it is thrown off
3. Engage the kick crank again and quickly push the engine through compression, on about the 100th time it will fire and run spewing oily smoke everywhere until it warms up.

Southern Cross PB (fig 1081) engine (Similar for Lister L Kerosene engine)

To run on petrol

1. Open the main needle valve 2 turns
2. Oil the shaft where the hand crank fits on and inside of the crank handle
3. Fit the crank handle
4. Using the hand lever, manually pump the combined fuel/oil pump until the starting bowl in the carburettor fills with petrol
   
5. Hold the crank handle with your thumb folded in (so it does not get ripped off if the engine fires backwards)
6. Close the choke lever completely
   
7. Slowly crank the engine until it fires (you have to crank slowly because it has an impulse trip on the magneto, and if you crank too fast it will not trip, but also will not be fast enough to fire the magneto normally)
8. Immediately it fires pull off the crank (if it did not already throw it off - mine usually does)
9. Slowly close the needle valve until the engine fires evenly and there is no more black smoke from the exhaust
10. After the engine warms up open up the choke slightly to give it a little more air - you may need to readjust the needle valve to get clean exhaust again

To stop the engine, just close the needle valve.

If you want to run the engine on kerosene, modify the starting procedure so that

Instead of the manual pumping in step 4, fill the starting bowl on the mixer with petrol but do everything else the same. You may need to do this more than once. If you need to repeat the procedure, drain the mixer back into the tank by lifting out the overflow pipe out of the mixer.

Ottawa horizontal type throttle governed type TE

1. Insert a shim between the nut and the main spring on the magneto trip mechanism to retard the spark
2. Set the run lever to STOP (uppermost position) - this stops the magneto firing
3. Set the throttle lever to fully open (almost touching the flywheel)
4. Open the needle valve a full turn
5. Pull the engine up until the compression point (near TDC) but not through compression pull it back
6. With your hand blocking the air intake pull the engine up until compression, remove your hand and pull it back
7. Repeat until a strong jet of fuel blasts (as a mist not as a trickle) out of the bottom of the mixer
8. Set the run lever to "START" (first position below "STOP")
   
9. Pull the engine up to compression, and then strongly pull it through - it will probably fire
10. Pull the shim out of the trip mechanism and set the run lever to "RUN" (mine does not seem to care if it is in position 3 or 4)
11. After the engine warms up a bit, push the throttle lever all the way into the engine casing - be really careful, this lever is between the spinning flywheel and the engine!

Cooper KA hit-n-miss (Similar for Stover K series)

1. Open the needle valve two turns
2. Close the choke plate on the mixer
3. Open the fuel tap if you have one
4. With your hand over the mixer intake slowly pull the engine through compression until fuel runs out of the mixer
5. Pull the engine through compression hard and it will fire and run
6. Slowly close the needle valve until the engine runs clean
7. After the engine warms up open the choke plate a little - you may have to adjust the mixer again

Maytag model 92 (similar all horizontal models)

1. Open the needle valve 1/3 turn.
2. Kick the starter a couple of times
3. The engine starts (or putts and dies - see later)
4. After the engine warms up
5. Slowly close the needle valve until it runs clean (hey, don't laugh - if you get the two-stroke mix right they run pretty clean - a little blue smoke is expected and ok)
   

Fairbanks Morse ZC-52 throttle governed with magneto ignition

1. Open the needle valve on mixer about 3/4 turn.
2. Engage the crank in the keyway of crankshaft.
3. With the crank in your right hand, use the left hand to cover the choke-plate on the mixer.
4. Spin the crank until fuel runs out of the mixer.
5. Continue to spin the crank until the engine fires.
6. Once the engine fires, remove the crank and adjust the mixer for best running.
7. To stop the engine, close the mixer needle valve.

Fairbanks-Morse ZC-52 throttle governed with solid-state ignition

1. Open the needle valve on the mixer about 3/4 turn.
2. Turn the flywheel backwards until you feel the compression bump.
3. Press on intake the valve stem and continue to turn the flywheel until the exhaust valve just opens.
4. Remove your finger from the intake valve and place your left hand over the choke plate.
5. Turn the flywheel about 1/2 turn clockwise.
6. Repeat this operation twice more or until fuel drips from the mixer.
7. With the ignition switch turned on, slowly turn the flywheel clockwise over compression. The engine will promptly start.
8. Adjust the mixer for best running.
9. To stop the engine, turn off the ignition.

Fairbanks-Morse type "T", "Jack of All Trades" hit-n-miss engine with ignitor ignition

Two horsepower 1902 Fairbanks-Morse Type T "Jack of All Trades" with ignitor:

1. Fill the fuel tank with gasoline.
2. Fill the oiler and oil all external moving parts.
3. Open needle valve on oiler and let a few drops of oil flow to the cylinder, then close it until the engine is running.
4. Turn the engine until the fuel pump plunger is all the way out.
5. Using the hand lever on the fuel pump, fill the mixer until you hear fuel running back to the tank. (If you don't hear fuel running back after twenty strokes or so, you may have to partially disassemble the pump to unstick one or both of the ball-type valves).
6. Set the needle valve on the mixer to the single mark position on the knob (about 3/4 turn counterclockwise from off).
7. Turn on the ignition.
8. Engage the crank pawl into the keyway of the crankshaft on the ignitor side of the engine. (Note that you can also engage the crank on the mixer side but you will be cranking the engine backwards if you do. Been there, done that!).
9. While holding the intake valve open, crank the engine. Once you have it turning at a fair clip, release the intake valve. If all's well, the engine will fire about the second or third time over compression. Immediately after the engine fires, pull the crank off the crankshaft.
10. Set the needle valve on the mixer to the double mark position on the knob. (about 1/4 turn from the starting position).
11. Open the oiler needle until about two drops flow per minute.
12. If the engine starts after the first try, the operator has permission to stand around and look smug.

NOTE:  The earlier vertical Fairbanks-Morse Type T engines had either a hot-tube system or an ignitor system, sometimes both.  With the hot-tube they can be started and run on kerosene.  After starting, the ignitor (if provided) can be turned on and the hot-tube can be turned off.  

This writer has no experience with the hot-tube version of the Fairbanks-Morse Type T engines.

General small engines of 2½ HP or less

Most of my engines, I start by:

1. Opening the throttle screw about 1 turn or less
2. Flip the choke plate over the mouth of the mixer
3. Retard the timing with the little lever by the trip mechanism at the magneto
4. Spin the flywheels until fuel runs out of the mixer
5. Give it a couple of hefty pulls through compression. 
6. Once it fires : Advance the timing - Open the choke - adjust the fuel.

      I Do Not Use A Crank Handle

Witte 2HP run on Kerosene

From dead cold :

1. Retard the spark at the magneto by flipping the lever forward.
2. Open the fuel needle screw 5 nut facets (almost 1 turn)
3. Open the primer cup on the cylinder just slightly to allow compression release.
4. Pull the flywheels through compression 5 times (this gets kerosene to the mixer)
5. At the start of the intake stroke - put a small squirt of gasoline on the primer cup.
6. Suck in the gasoline - and - on the compression stroke, pull it through compression.  It will fire.
7. Once it fires - Advance timing - close primer cup. Being that it's burning Kerosene - I have to keep mind and choke the mixer by covering it with my hand just enough to keep it running. I do this for a few minutes until it warms up a little.

'sbout it.

Hercules/Jaeger/Economy

Starting a magneto engine on compression

1. Fill tank and clean spark plug.
2. Set lever on magneto to the ADVANCED timing position.
3. Hold in intake valve in to bring piston to TDC on intake stroke. Release valve.
4. Hold hand over mixer intake (or inlet to carburettor on TG engines.)
5. Pull through intake stroke to prime with a good shot of fuel.
6. Continue to pull through until you feel compression.
7. Grab top of flywheel and flip it hard, backwards, against compression.
8. If you flip it hard enough the magneto should trip and fire the engine, reversing the direction you were turning it.
9. If it fails to fire after a few attempts, repeat the priming sequence above, or try priming it through the priming cup.

Abenaque (6HP) hit and miss with magneto

1. Fill fuel tank.
2. Turn side shaft so that fuel pump cam is up. (so fuel pump primer can be pumped)
3. Open fuel injector needle valve 1 turn.
4. Manually pump fuel pump to prime until you can hear
5. 3 or 4 time good squirts go in the intake chamber.
6. Open priming valve.
7. Turn flywheels in the running direction through compression to TDC, letting the magneto trip.
8. While slowly turning the flywheels down the power stoke, add fuel in the priming cup. Add LOTS of fuel (several priming cup fulls) as it is hard to start an Abby!
9. You should now be about half way down the power stroke.
10. Close the priming valve.
11. With vigour turn the flywheels the running direction, through the remaining power stroke, the exhaust stroke, the next intake stroke, all while gaining momentum. It should easily go through the next compression stroke and fire.
12. Continue pulling through until it fires, usually 2 to 4 times through.
13. Adjust the fuel injector needle valve for proper operation as it warms up. Mine runs a 1/4 turn open.

Associated

Flippin the flywheels style.

1. Check all the grease cups and fill as needed.
2. Check the oiler and fill as needed.
3. Using an oil can, lube the rocker arm, exhaust and intake valves, cam follower, pushrod slides, bevel gear for magneto, ignitor, and then a small amount on the skirt of the piston.
4. Insure there is enough fuel in the tank by adding some.
5. Check the water level in the hopper and add as needed.
6. Pour a small amount of gasoline onto a nice terrycloth rag.
7. Wrap rag around the air holes of the mixer.
8. Set fuel mixer at 1 1/2 turns out from closed.
9. Hook wire up to the ignitor. (I never leave the wire connected when not running)
10. Turn the flywheels until I feel compression starting to build.
11. Place my hands on the rim of the flywheels, making sure that my thumbs are not hooked around the flywheel but rather are also on the rim of the flywheel.
12. Place one foot onto the edge of the cart.
13. Give a good sharp pull. Repeat from 11 as required.
14. Remove rag and sit down to listen to the stack music.

Crank handle style.

1. Check all the grease cups and fill as needed.
2. Check the oiler and fill as needed.
3. Using an oil can, lube the rocker arm, exhaust and intake valves, cam follower, pushrod slides, bevel gear for magneto, ignitor, and then a small amount on the skirt of the piston.
4. Insure there is enough fuel in the tank by adding some.
5. Check the water level in the hopper and add as needed.
6. Place a thin coat of grease on the inside of the crank handle, and also on the crankshaft.
7. Set fuel mixer at 1 1/2 turns out from closed.
8. Hook wire up to the ignitor. (I never leave the wire connected when not running)
9. Insure that there is no one standing right behind me or to the rear of the engine.
10. Put a glove on my cranking hand.
11. Place the crank handle on the crank shaft.
12. Hold the intake valve in slightly, and start cranking.
13. When at sufficient speed, remove the crank handle while still holding the intake valve open.
14. Release intake valve, and push the choke plate closed.
15. Release choke plate, sit down and listen to the stack music.

The use of the crank handle works best, as the type of magneto used requires
some speed in order to obtain sufficient spark.

Stickney hit and miss with ignitor

1. Fill fuel tank.
2. EVERY time remove the ignitor and clean carbon off of the floating rod!
3. Connect battery and turn on switch.
4. Open petcock on ignitor and confirm spark. (Don't view too close in case it fires!) Close petcock.
5. Turn on fuel and prime the mixer by holding in button on bottom of mixer until fuel begin to dribble out around button.
6. Turn the flywheels slowly backwards until against compression.
7. Find a friend to turn the other flywheel.
8. Turn the flywheels as fast as possible the correct direction, through the intake stroke (gaining momentum) and muscle it through the compression stroke.
9. Continue to muscle it through until it fires (usually 1st or second time around)

IHC Famous (8HP) hit and miss ignitor engine

1. Fill fuel tank and confirm spark at ignitor.
2. Manually pump fuel pump until fuel is flowing over dam in mixer. Re-engage fuel pump pusher.
3. Make sure choke is open.
4. Move exhaust cam follower over to compression relief lobe.
5. Begin turning "on side" flywheel the running direction using the right hand on the spokes.
6. Once up to good speed, use left hand to shift lever off of compression relief.
7. At the same moment turn the choke full on.
8. Continue pulling hard on the flywheel spokes with right hand.
9. It should sufficient momentum to suck in a full charge, go through a full compression cycle, and fire the first time.

Kohler light plant

1. Plug in light
2. Turn on light

1. Turn off light.

1. Connect 2 12 volt batteries in series.
2. Connect a ground  (even if it is a large screwdriver pushed into the soil)
3. Open fuel shutoff
4. Pump fuel pump lever by hand until no resistance is felt.
5. Plug in light
6. When engine is up to temperature, disconnect one wire from the electric choke so that the engine will start better for the rest of the show.

Galoway 16HP ignitor hit-n-miss

1. Turn on the gas
2. Open the compression release about half way and pull her through twice.
3. Then stopped her 90 degrees ATDC.
4. Close the compression release
5. Hook up the battery and "tickle" the ignitor.
6. Opened the compression release just as the engine comes up on compression after firing the first time.
7. She will go through compression and fire again (harder)
8. Shut the compression release!

Witte side shaft (9hp)

1. 1. Turn all grease cups, oil lubrication points.
2. Hold intake valve open and rotate engine just past top dead center on the compression stroke.
3. Turn on fuel and ignition switch.
4. Slide roller for exhaust valve to the rear for compression release mode.
5. Place right hand on the flywheel spoke in the 3 o'clock position, palm down.
6. Rotate flywheel two complete revolutions and engine should be running, if not pull exhaust roller back to the release position and complete the cycle again.
7. If it is still not running ( usually only when the engine is cold), turn off the fuel and rotate a couple more times while in the compression release mode. When it fires, let it fire twice then turn on the fuel and adjust speed.
8. Step back and smile widely, enjoy.

1/2 breed 15HP Natural Gas two cycle (ex steam engine)

Ok - I have an engine very much like Tilley - it is a 1/2 breed
15HP natural gas two cycle that has been factory converted from
a steam engine to a two cycle natural gas engine that I run on
propane. The cylinder and main casting of the engine say
"Manwaring & Havens" & "Sheffield". I assume made in Sheffield, PA.

I'm sure there are lots of ways to run it but I found
what works for me is to burn the hot tube flame so the 6" stainless
steel hot tube (purchased from John Burns) is entirely red. 
Connect an accumulator in front of the gas/air mixture input made
of 4" pipe about 4 feet long fed from a regulator set to about
2PSI. In between the accumulator and the engine is a 3/8" DIAMOND
valve. This is Much more controllable than a larger size!
The head itself has one threaded connection that sticks
straight out as if to hold a spark plug. In this hole, Is a short
nipple that sticks out, a tee with vertical hot tube and another
nipple with a ball valve that opens to the air.

Then, to start the engine, you open the valve to the atmosphere,
close the diamond valve and turn the engine over at least twice.
More times don't hurt anything. Leave the piston at BDC. Close
the air valve, open the gas valve to exactly 1/8. Put your foot
up on a spoke and grab the top of the one flywheel (there is a
clutch on the other side - only one steam engine flywheel) and
give it a bit of a turn back into compression. As soon as it fires,
and it will 90% of the time with this method, you have to immediately
open the gas valve ever so little until it fires again. Then keep
your hand on the gas valve and do tiny tiny adjustments until the
engine is running nice and comes up to temperature. 

This engine runs like a four stroke when unloaded - i.e., ever other
compression stroke is only a small explosion and every other is a
good hard hit. If you crack the gas valve open farther, it will
hit hit hit but run too fast. I haven't had it loaded it but 
suspect if it had a belt load on it, you could give it more gas
and it would hit hard every time.

I am writing this at 2am and reserve the right to change the 
the 1) length of the stainless steel pipe, 2) the gas pressure in
the accumulator, and 3) the setting on the diamond valve because
I haven't run the engine since last fall but I believe what I have
written above is true and correct. 

I LOVE this engine bought off eBay, sight unseen, for $850 on my 
way to my first Portland show ever in the summer of 2001. The 
engine was 4 hours west. The show was another 7 hours farther west.

Large compressor / engine with shared crank shaft

I guess from the stories I have been sharing here all of you must think that
I must be about 100 years old, but I am only a little over half of that! But
talking about starting big engines... Back in the mid '60's I worked for
Texsun Corp, a juice/canning plant. This plant even converted the citrus
pulp to cow feed! in this process the excess water, citrus oil and left over
juice was concentrated into "molasses" by boiling it at a low temperature.
The equipment used was a very large air compressor/engine that operated from
one crankshaft with the power cylinder at one end and the compressor at the
other end. This unit had 2 flywheels on it that were 6 to 7 ft in dia.
Starting sequence was very interesting, and consisted of the following
steps. 1. The engine was turned over by hand until the engine piston was
just past TDC. 2. Then the operator manipulated some small hand valves
introducing air into the cylinder in order to mane the engine start to turn
over, similar to a steam engine. 3. When the engine was rotating at a fir
rate (>20 rpm) the operator switched other valves on the engine to conduct
in natural gas and started the ignition system. This would start the engine
firing and bring it up to speed, which seemed to be about 100 to 200 rpm.
After this plant closed I guess those units were scrapped. What A Waste!

2 1/4 hp. Galloway (Early Style..oiler behind hopper)

Submitted by Rick Strobel ricandkath@msn.com

Preflight/Lube/Gas-Up
Review emergency shutdown proceedures in my head.
Open main fuel valve.
Push in on the movable igniter contact several times..This "scrubs" the
contacts.
Open mixer needle valve one quarter turn, close choke (This is for the old
mixer w/air shutter).
Open cc oiler, adjust drip rate. I've got mine dripping once every ten
seconds.  New rings.
Postion spark advance on Webster bracket to the right hand position.(START)
Pull thru several times until mixer is flooded, close mixer needle valve.
Pull thru until engine hits once, quickly open air shutter (just a little)
and needle valve 1/4 turn.
If it hits the second time, you will find yourself smiling.
Move spark advance to the left (run) position.
Adjust air/fuel mixture until exhaust is clear and running nicely..lot's of
miss.
After I'm happy that it's running nice..I then add water to the hopper.

Preheating the mixer/head and using hot water in the hopper is permitted if
you weigh in excess of 250 lbs. or you're "Packin'."  This really helps to
vaporize the fuel.

To Stop..shut off fuel. Now I don't drain the hopper until water temp. cools
down to approx. ambient.  Just a personal thing as I fear hot spots might
develop in head, cyl. piston....open to discusssion.

Go out next day and wipe up the oily mess...forgot to turn that damn oiler
off again:-)

Damn, this is FUN!!

General Tip To Start Almost Any Engine

I'll offer a few tips that i have found to make it easier to
start most any engine: (i'm fairly lazy & not muscular)

To precharge cyl prior to starting, hold intake valve open,
bring to tdc on comp stroke, choke, and flip it.. you get
2 suction strokes without having to pull it thru compression.
hold intake valve open and slowly back engine up till you
get to tdc on comp stroke.

Repeat as needed until you have fuel dripping from mixer.
on the last one, release hand from choke just before it
quits sucking, this will suck the fuel mixture in nicely.
then, bring to bdc of comp stroke, (it should already be 
there) hold intake valve open and rotate until you know
you can pull i thru comp with some speed. (on 4 hp ottawa
this is about half way) it should fire.

I do all this while kneeling next to the engine, (skided) then
I get up and pull it thru comp and it should lite.
you have to fine-tune this method for each of your engines,
but it's worth it.

I've seen lots of people using one guy pulling flywheels and
the other guy running the choke, etc, for a long time just to
get an explosive mixture into the cyl..

This method only works with trip type mags or impulse
magnetos, but could save some cranking on non-impulse
as well.

Lister Diesel Engine Marks 3-1, 5-1, 10-2 (and probably for 6-1 and 12-2 as well) - the Lister 'CS' series.

Submitted by Peter Scales peter@loud-n-clear.net

Points 1 to 7 apply to the singles, 3-1, 5-1 (6-1), 8 to 15 to all models.

1. Remove Crankcase Door and pour in Lubricating oil of the correct quality till it overflows into the sump.
2. Using engine oil in oil can, well oil connecting rod big end through the holes provided.
3. Open oil Filler Cover.
4. Fill sump with oil to within one inch of the top.
5. Work pump hand lever up and down and see that oil is delivered through the oil pipes inside the crankcase on to the main bearings.
6. Replace crankcase door.
7. Close oil Filler cover and screw wing nut tight.  (Note - do not open while engine is running as oil will be forced out.)
8. Fill recess in cylinder head round the valves with lubricating oil.
9. Fill tops of push-rods and tops of Tappets. [with oil]
10. Fill small greaser on valve rocker shaft and screw down a turn.
11. Place oil in small cup labelled "oil", near valve tappets.
12. Fill water cooling system with water, avoiding "hard" water wherever possible.  In case of tank cooling, open 3-way tap in bottom water tank connection so that the water can flow freely from tank into cylinder jacket. (Keep water above top connection in tank.)
13. Fill fuel tank using fine gauze strainer.
14. Turn on fuel tap on fuel tank.
15. Prime fuel system.
    
    "To Start Engine"  (all models)
    1. See that the valve lifter stud is underneath the exhaust valve tappet.
    2. Turn Governor Lever Handle downwards.
    3. Lift Overload Pawl to allow governor lever to move to maximum position.  This Pawl will return to Normal as soon as engine starts.
    4. Screw the compression ratio changeover Valve(s) inwards tight on to seat.
    5. Place the starting handle on the engine crankshaft, and turn smartly. When a good speed has been obtained on the flywheel, pull valve lifter stud from under exhaust valve tappet when the engine should immediately fire. On multi-cylinder engines the other stud should be pulled out immediately after.
    6. As son as the engine has attained its normal speed, open the compression ratio changeover valve by screwing the hand wheel(s) outwards until it (they) come(s) to a stop.
    7. NOTE.  When Changeover Valve is screwed in [it beds] against seating at A Fig. 3; when screwed out, against seating at B.  These seatings should be kept free from carbon.  This can be done by turning valve hand wheel backwards and forwards once or twice before leaving in final position, tight up.

    
    [For lightly loaded engines (1/3 load or less) it may be advantageous to run on low compression for reasons of less smoke.]
    
    "To Stop" (all models)
    Push up Governor-Control Lever.
    
    If frost is probable, drain cylinder jacket, also water circulating pump 
    if fitted.
    

Lister 10-2 Diesel Engine (and probably 12-2 as well)

Submitted by Peter Scales peter@loud-n-clear.net

1.  Remove Crankcase Door and fill the connecting rod troughs with lubricating oil of the correct quality.
2.  Using engine oil in oil can, well oil connecting rod big end through the holes provided.
3.  Open Oil Filler Cover.
4.  Fill sump with oil to within one inch of the top.
5.  Turn Engine over by hand until oil is delivered through the three oil pipes inside the crankcase on to the main bearings.
6.  Replace Crankcase Door.

"To Start Engine"  (all models)    

1. See that the valve lifter stud is underneath the exhaust valve tappet.
2. Turn Governor Lever Handle downwards.
3. Lift Overload Pawl to allow governor lever to move to maximum position.  This Pawl will return to Normal as soon as engine starts.
4. Screw the compression ratio changeover Valve(s) inwards tight on to seat.
5. Place the starting handle on the engine crankshaft, and turn smartly. When a good speed has been obtained on the flywheel, pull valve lifter stud from under exhaust valve tappet when the engine should immediately fire. On multi-cylinder engines the other stud should be pulled out immediately after.
6. As son as the engine has attained its normal speed, open the compression ratio changeover valve by screwing the hand wheel(s) outwards until it (they) come(s) to a stop.
7. NOTE.  When Changeover Valve is screwed in [it beds] against seating at A Fig. 3; when screwed out, against seating at B.  These seatings should be kept free from carbon.  This can be done by turning valve hand wheel backwards and forwards once or twice before leaving in final position, tight up.

Fairbanks Morse type RE 50hp

1. Start electric air compressor to fill storage tanks.
2. Hook up garden hose to cooling system to fill water jackets.  Make sure drain valve is closed and then turn on water.  Keep filling until the overflow water is heard running in the adjacent shower room. Originally this was the only source of warm showers on the grounds.
3. While the air tanks and water jackets are filling start climbing up on the engine with pump type oiler in hand and start lubricating everything that moves that is not lubricated by one of the built in systems.  There are many different linkages, pivot points, etc. that need attention.  While up on the engine also turn the grease cups on the valve rocker arms in some.   Also check that the reservoir for the drip oiler system has sufficient oil.
4. Open the proper shutter in the air intake system depending on weather conditions.  The engine can draw air from outside the building, inside the building or from a housing around the exhaust manifold for heated air.  Also close the shutter that is used as a choke.
5. Open valve in oil supply line from the overhead tank that feeds the 13 dripper manifold.  Open the flipper on each dripper and check for proper drip rate in each of the 13 sight glasses.  Allow to run for a few minutes to pre-lube the bearings then close the main valve but leave drippers open.
6. Check that the spark advance lever is in the retard position for starting.
7. Open vents in the fuel system at level of intake manifold and then use manual lever on the cam driven fuel pump to fill glass fuel bowl.
8. After two minutes of pumping and nothing happens then remember to open vent on fuel tank and also the valve between tank and fuel pump and try again.  Stop when fuel bowl is full.
9. Open needle valve for each cylinder appropriate amount for starting.  The needles happen to be ground to different tapers so it is not the same for each one.
10. Move "air start" lever to start position.  This converts one of the cylinders to an air operated motor for starting by changing the valve timing.  The intake valve is kept closed all the time and the exhaust valve opens every time the piston moves up.  There is an additional valve on this cylinder that admits compressed air every time the piston is just beyond top dead center when it is open to rotate the engine.
11. Open the compression release valve on each cylinder.
12. Manually turn flywheels until pistons (they move simultaneously) are just past top dead center.
13. Close compression release valves.
14. Turn on switch that supplies power to the small motor that turns the low voltage generator that supplies the ignitors and close the knife switch for each ignitor.  
15. Open valve in oil supply line.
16. Open compressed air valve and engine should start turning over.
17. If all is well after a few revolutions the "non converted" cylinder should fire.
18. Close compressed air valve.
19. Move the air start lever to the "run" position changing this cylinder back to an internal combustion mode.
20. Move the ignition advance lever to the "run" position.
21. Open the choke.
22. By now the engine should be running on both cylinders and you should twiddle (technical term) the needle valves to achieve smooth operation.
23. Open the cooling water valve.
24. Step outside and enjoy the sound of 2600 cubic inches firing through a 6 inch straight exhaust pipe.
25. For shut down, close needle valves and kill power to the ignitors and then shut off oilers, cooling water, fuel, etc.

Just for a smile...

Rope start lawn mower - smile version

Go to the gas station to get gas.
Put some fresh gas in the tank.
Turn on the choke.
Pull the rope.
Pull the rope.
Break the rope.
Remove starter housing.
Cut finger on coil spring.
Mend laceration with electrical tape.
Go get a beer.
Finish replacement of the rope.
Pull the rope.
Pull the rope.
Pull the rope.
Take out the plug.
Slowly crank over engine.
Replace plug.
Pull the rope.
Pull the rope.
Remember to hook up the plug wire.
Pull the rope some more.
VROOOM VROOOM!
Start mowing the perimeter.
Sneeze continuously from dust and grass pollen.
Blow nose.
Wipe tears from eyes.
Keep mowing 'cuz it's almost done.
Break sprinkler head.
Quit.
Get another beer.
Call gardener.

Maytag - smile version

1. - Fill tank with proper gasoline/smoke-making mixture.
2. - Set choke.
3. - Assume the starting position with foot over stomper.
4. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,duh,duh.
5. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,duh,duh.
6. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,duh,duh.
7. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,duh,duh.
8. - Remove spark plug and check for oil fouling.
9. - Replace spark plug and check for -OUCH!!"- spark.
10. - Assume the starting position with foot over stomper.
11. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,POP,duh,duh.
12. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,duh,duh.
13. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,duh,duh.
14. - Stomp!...duh,POP,duh,duh,duh,duh.
15. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,POP,POP,duh,duh.
16. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,duh,duh.
17. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,duh,duh.
18. - Stomp!...duh,POP,duh,duh,POP,duh,duh, POP,POP,duh,duh POP, duh,duh,duh,duh,duh....
19. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,duh,duh.
20. - Hurl choice expletives at the recalcitrant motor.
21. - Adjust mixture.
22. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,POP,duh,duh.
23. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,duh,duh.
24. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,duh,duh.
25. - Expletive deleted.
26. - Stomp!...duh,POP,duh,duh,duh,duh.
27. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,POP,POP,duh,duh.
28. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,duh,duh.
29. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,duh,duh.
30. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,duh,duh.
31. - Jump up and down to try to get kink out of knee.
32. - Hurl salty oath at infernal machine.
33. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,duh,duh.
34. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,duh,duh.
35. - Stomp!...duh,duh,duh,duh,duh.
36. - Go looking for your axe........

	Results could vary......

And in defence of the Maytag...

Just keep it up, Elden, and I'll bring a Maytag to Lincoln Tucker's Show
& Tell and set up right next to you so you can smell and listen to it
run all day.

At home, or at a show, my Maytag single starts first kick. Last Spring I
set it out on the ground to get something else out of a storage van. It
was too close because when I turned around with my hands full and bumped
the kick start lever it almost started. I had the same fuel in it from
the last show in the summer before. I just gave it a little kick and it
ran till the fuel ran out.

It's setting in the basement now and I have to be careful or I'll start
it by accident.

If I had the room to haul the equipment I would be doing the laundry at
Lincoln's show.  Let some of the kids use my scrub board and hand crank
rollers and let others just watch one of my Maytags wash clothes and
feed some through the powered rollers. I did it both ways as a kid.
Mom's Maytag had an electric motor on it though.

I bought my Maytag single cheap from a guy at a swap meet that spent two
days kicking at it and couldn't make it run. I kept bugging him and just
happened to be there when he gave the last kick. That was the one that
smashed the beautiful CEDAR one-by skids that some idiot had put under
it. He cut his price in half and AFTER I had paid him he went and got
the rest of the display. I now have a nice Shotgun Maytag. 

I took it home and let it set for a day. Then I cleaned the plug and
removed the little mixture lever. I then screwed the needle IN 3 1/2
TURNS!!!! I put the lever back on so it was just barely off the casting
then pointed it straight up. I made a 2x4 frame to mount it to and set
it on the ground. FIRST kick it fired up and ran.

Your engine not here?