Steam & Engine of Australia

 

Stripping An Engine

At the beginning of 2001 Randy Wells asked the SEL their opinions on the best way to strip an engine...

From: RCWells2@aol.com Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 20:57:53 EST Subject: Opinion on stripping an engine

Happy New Year to everyone! I would like to hear from all that would like to 
respond as to "" stripping"" an engine. 
#1 Sandblast
#2 Dip
# Hand grind off exisiting ( what little bit) paint that remains

Time is not of the essence nor is money. I am leaning towards hand grinding.
Thanks! Randy

Randy got plenty of responses, most of them feel sandblasting is the way to go - here are some samples...

From: Dave Rotigel rotigel@westol.com Do it right--take it ALL apart and sandblast it! Dave

From: "Jerry Bernard" jerryb@mobiletel.com In the whole 2 1/2 engines iv'e restored(one is 1/2 done) i've used 2 methods, sanding with an orbit sander till all the rust is gone, then 3 coats of paint, or if the engine has no paint and surface rust, i take a wire wheel that attaches to a drill and take all the surface rust off, then go over it with 100 grit paper, then 2 coats primer 3 coats paint. never used sand blasting. Jay B.

From: "Glenn A Karch" glenn.karch@gte.net I usually take my disassembled engines to Redi Strip. They come back bare metal with all imperfections showing. I then touch up grind a little, body putty a little and then paint three or more coats. The small parts are generally kept at home so they can be worked on while waiting for the stripping of the larger parts to be done. Glenn K

From: "charles r. bryant" mogul@stlnet.com Sandblasting is going to cost you $30 to $40 or take it to Dave, he won't charge you). Otherewise take a few hours and strip and sand it. I did on a 6HP Sandwich and several other engines. That way you won't remove any filler that might have been used at the factory. Charlie Bryant

From: Dave Rotigel rotigel@westol.com Where are you getting an engine sandblasted for "$30 to $40?" The last engine I had sandblasted cost me over $200.00! Dave

From: "charles r. bryant" mogul@stlnet.com Thats the average price in the U.S.A., not Pennsylvania.. Sandblasting companies here get $40 to $50 per hour. The grease must be cleaned off. It it isn't they will charge you extra for clening the grease off. Boy they must of seen you coming. To friends, on engines smaller than 3 HP I usuall get $25. I will give you a special price of a $100 though, pick up the engine when I am in PA and drop it off on my return trip. (you can't beat that deal). Charlie

From: "Patrick M Livingstone" pml@bigpond.com I have done all mine by hand (so far). I strip off as much paint as possible then prime, fill and paint. I have made a start on my 12hp R&V by hand and I am progressing well. I may get the flywheels sand-blasted or dipped as the thought of cleaning them up by hand is pretty daunting :) Patrick

From: "Joe Prindle" jprindle@tznet.com I like to tear them all apart, sandblast them absolutely clean, primer and paint and then leave it almost but not quite finished. Sometimes I just primer them, sometimes I just tear them apart and hide all the parts in various places to discourage theft! ;-) Joe Prindle

From: "Rob Skinner" rskinner@rustyiron.com Blasting produces the best surface for the new primer to adhere, but the surface is left rougher, thus requiring more priming. A wire cup wheel in an angle grinder is good. The surface isn't left as fresh as blasting, but it's smooth, requiring less primer. Rob

From: Paul Pavlinovich I first clean up the engine with a commercial degreaser and wash it with truck wash. After that I take it all apart and get to work with a wire wheel. I like both the traditional wire wheel and the recent wire cup. When choosing your wheel do not skimp on price, the best ones are heavy grade wire (about 12AWG) twisted into "ropes". The cheap ones fly apart when you speed them up on the drill let alone actually apply them to a surface! I also find that I used to go through 5 or 6 cheaper wheels (about $15 each) when with the $50 wire cup I've used the same one for about a year now.




This article is part of the Stationary Internal Combustion Engine Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ). This series is a combination of my views and knowledge and the views and knowledge of other people - most of them members of the Stationary Engine Mailing List (More info on ATIS). Those articles which were written by others are © Copyright to the author. Those articles written by myself are © Copyright to Paul Pavlinovich.

Got comments?

If you would like to comment on any part of the FAQ please do so by using the

Disclaimer:It should be noted that the information given in this document is considered to be good advice by the people who give it, however any legal liability lies strictly with the reader. The contributors are hobbiests not professionals.

 
Last modified Sunday, 06-Aug-2006 12:11:17 BST
 
blindThis menu is included for the blind to use with speaking software that may not be able to cope with the java based popup menu at the top of the screen.
Home
Internal Combustion
Steam
Stirling Cycle
Railways
Miscellaneous
New
Clubs
  Listing
Museums
  Listing
  Site Reports
Events
  New Year CrankUp
  Reports
  Announcements
  Engines
  Restoration
  FAQ
  History
  Magneto
  Saw Mill
  Models
  Tractors
  On The Water
  SEL
  Engines
  Restoration
  FAQ
  History
  Saw Mill
  Models
  Traction
  Road
  On The Water
  COALS
  Engines
  History
  Operation
  Models
  Mainline
  Narrow Gauge
  Tramways
  History
  Models
Site Map
Search
Models
Identity Parade - Can you help?
Registrars
  Listing by Type
Manual Exchange
  Listing
Guestbook
Memories
About
Copyright
Links

 
All documents and images on this site are
© Copyright 1995-2008 Paul Pavlinovich unless otherwise stated. You may not copy any documents or images from this site without explicit written permission except as allowed by Statutory License under The Copyright Act. More Information.

e-mail .
Please note that a clickable address is no longer provided due to spam harvesting. Just type the address from the image above into your favourite email client. Over time I will be replacing or removing all email addresses on this site with this sort of feature.

This site is best viewed with the free open source browser Firefox. Get Firefox!