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Unsticking Valves & PistonsUnsticking ValvesSubject: Stuck Valves Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 19:23:00 -0600 From: "Charles r. Bryant"On the subject of removal of stuck valves I have been using the "wet rag" method that was passed on to me by a couple of old steam engine guys (nearly as old as Dave). During the past couple of years I probably have removed at least a couple of dozen stuck valves. There has only been 1 case that I was not successful. I heat the valve guide and valve stem with a propane torch. Then take a wet shop towel and hold it around the valve stem guide. Hold a dry towel over the wet towel to keep from burning your hand. Then I tap on the valve stem with a brass hammer . If it doesn't come loose the first time I repeat the procedure maybe 2 or 3 times. I have removed valves that guys using a acetylene (sp).torch were not able to do. This procedure works excellent for removing studs, screws, nuts etc. A couple of weeks ago we removed the head studs from an Economy block that were really tight. We did not break a one. Unsticking PistonsSubject: Sattley 1½ HP Restoration Status Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 19:19:12 EDT From: FRM8198@aol.com Hi List,The piston is OUT! The grease gun method was used to unstick the engine. I would like to thank all of you that sent me excellent suggestions on the different techniques to try. I learned a lot of things in performing this task. The use of transmission fluid was a success as a penetration oil. The engine was positioned in the vertical position (head up) and cylinder was fill with transmission fluid. Then, grease was injected into the cylinder via the spark plug hole which was fitted with a zerk fitting. This was maintained for three (3) days with an occasional injection of grease until the handle on the grease gun was hard to push. Eventually, some of the transmission fluid started to seep from around the piston. Next, the engine was repositioned into the horizontal position. Now, my problems started. Since the transmission fluid was allowed to contact the valves, it began to leak from the muffler and the mixer assembly. The muffler was removed and 1¼" pipe plug was inserted into the exhaust port. The intake mixer assembly was removed and replace with a blank plate. This stop the valve leakage until the thicker grease displaced the lighter transmission fluid. A small amount of grease leakage was experienced around the valve stems. The hopper was filled with hot water and grease pressure was constantly maintained with a manual grease gun in this configuration for several days. The rod bearing was loosened and rocking motion via the flywheels was applied several times. This rocking action didn't seem to help. Eventually, the application of hot water in the hopper and keeping the cylinder pressurized with a manual grease gun forced the piston to move slightly. Next the rod was completely disconnected from the crankshaft. As the grease gun was pumped, the piston moved very little. Subsequently, a power gun was used and the piston continued its journey out of the cylinder. Every thing proceeded as expected until the skirt of the piston was about an inch out of the block when grease oozed out of the drip oiler pipe. A ¼" pipe plug was inserted and the piston removal process continued until the piston was completely out. The use of the power grease gun (after observation of piston movement) saved a considerable amount of time. As the piston was coming out, there was some grease leakage observed between the piston and cylinder. Inspection of the piston after removal showed that gap of the three rings weren't staggered but the ring gaps were aligned in a straight line. Now, the grease has to be removed from the cylinder. Next, the head will have to be removed, inspected, and the valves checked. Of course, the cylinder will be honed before reassembly. Francis Maciel Santa Maria, California ==== Subject: Re: Sattley 1½ HP Restoration Status Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 22:22:00 -0400 From: John Culp |There was a big discussion on here some time ago about piston ring gaps and |that they tend to line up after a while. Apparently rings rotate during |running.
They do. When the ring gaps line up, that means that the bore has
become egg-shaped in cross section. The gaps line up on the "pointy"
side of the ovoid, where they have the most room to expand. In a
perfectly round bore, even though the rings slowly rotate (or not so
slowly in a newly honed bore), they stay randomly misaligned.
Disclaimer:It should be noted that the information
given in this document is considered to be good advice by the people who give
it, however any legal liability lies strictly with the reader. The contributors
are hobbiests not professionals.
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