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Internal Combustion
Internal Combustion Engines are basically any device which uses the explosive combustion of fuel to push a piston within a cylinder. Examples of internal combustion fuels include:
  1. Petrol/Gasoline
  2. Diesel
  3. Kerosene
  4. Aviation Gas (AVGAS)

In this section of Steam & Engine you will find both details on the processes and engines, but examples of the usage of those engines.

Internal Combustion Engines are basically any device which uses the explosive combustion of fuel to push a piston within a cylinder. Examples of internal combustion fuels include:
  1. Petrol/Gasoline
  2. Diesel
  3. Kerosene
  4. Aviation Gas (AVGAS)

In this section of Steam & Engine you will find both details on the processes and engines, but examples of the usage of those engines.

Remember to also check the Registrars page (menu item at left) and the Manual Exchange (menu item at left) for more information. If you have an engine it can be to your advantage to register it with a registrar in order to find other people who also have your engine type/style/brand. It can also help out if your engine is ever stolen.



Regimota Models PDF Print E-mail
Written by Paul Pavlinovich   
Wednesday, 07 October 2009 22:21

These are some of the models of Regimota created by Reg Ingold. This man is a prolific engine builder of very high quality. His engines were one of the star attractions of the SEL compound. I'm proud to clasify Reg as one of my friends!

regimota

 
Empirical PDF Print E-mail
Written by Paul Pavlinovich   
Wednesday, 07 October 2009 22:19
empirical This is the story of a model engine built by Alby Smith of Sunbury in Victoria.

 

The Beginning

Empirical commenced life as a set of castings purchased in England under the design name of RLE. The supplied sketches were rejected at the beginning because of the relatively crude design. For example, the valve rocker was a piece of 1/4" square mild steel with a bush less pivot hole and no provision for tappet adjustment. The connecting rod was a piece of steel bar stock with an oil can hole to allow lubrication of the big end. The crankshaft; unbalanced of cut and "glue" construction with unbushed main bearings. The primitive cam follower operated via Meccano gears.

 

The Present

Empirical was built from rough free hand sketches. The overall design (appearance) is loosely based on full sized engines of pre-1920 period. The engine is hopper cooled with exhaust activated hit and miss governing.

Bore 1.25" stroke 2". Compression ration 6.5:1. The one piece balanced crank shaft has been electroless nickel plated for wear resistance. All bearings are bronze bushed, including the valve rocker.

Located in the "toolbox" is the reliable and efficient spark ignition system manufactured by Floyd Carter USA. The Ni-Cad battery energised coil provides a spark more than 1/4" long. The spark is initiated by a Hall effect device mounted on the frame near the off side flywheel. Three rare earth magnets are mounted on a disc which is attached to the crankshaft. As the last magnet moves past the device the spark is initiated. No magneto is used on model engines as it is almost impossible to scale them down and still prevent internal arcing.

The miniature spark plug is commercially manufactured for model aircraft engines. Home made plugs have been tried, however, the engine performance is down when compared to the commercial plug. Experiments are to be made with home made plugs of different design in the near future.

Fuel; unleaded petrol. The fuel tank was made from a shortened oil filter outer shell.

The skid frame is made from blackwood.

 

The Build

Construction of the engine was completed using a Myford ML7 lathe with vertical milling attachment. 1/2" pedestal drill. Large flat surfaces were accomplished with the aid of files and scrapers. The lousy (PP:looked pretty good to me) brush painted finish provides a base for the professional sign writing - Empirical.

"Empirical" : Experimental - Observed - Practical - Pragmatic - (anti)Theoretical - Hypothetical.
TAYMITH Engineers, Sunbury Vic, Australia. A mythical engineering firm. "Taymith" is a combination of family names.

 

Editorial Comment by Paul Pavlinovich

Note that the manufacturer of the casting set used in "The Empirical Engine" article wrote to me demanding that the article be removed from the server as it was not exactly complimentary to the casting set used. I trust the model engineering abilities and judgment of the author Mr Alby Smith who is a dedicated member of the Australian Army Engineers. Steam & Engine being a magazine site reserves the right to publish articles which are not always complimentary as I consider the truth to be more important. It should be further noted that I did offer right of reply to the manufacturer in question which was ignored.
 
Little Briggs Conversion PDF Print E-mail
Written by Paul Pavlinovich   
Wednesday, 07 October 2009 22:17
briggs1

At my first Portland (1999) I purchased a converted Briggs (circa 1910) from Leroy Clark. Leroy had converted the engine to a hit and miss open crank horizontal from its original vertical closed governed design.

Leroy did a great job with the engine, but since I was heading back to Oz we finalised the deal hurriedly and the engine was not quite there. Ever since then when the fancy took me I worked on it, but could never get it to run more than a few pops at a time.

The trip back to Australia is worth commenting on... with the help of George Best the engine was crated at about 11pm on the eve of my departure back to Australia via LA. No-one was sure if the engine would be allowed on a plane or not. I removed the fuel tank that came with the engine and cleaned it up a bit. The crate was accepted onto the plane although they did put it through a gas detector. Back in Australia things were not so simple, the wooden crate excited a little attention from customs. Once the guy saw what was in it the guy turned out to be a fellow collector and all went well. Last year (2000) I brought it back to the USA on a plane and had the same problems coming into the USA with it. I got it over to Portland in 2000 without too much hassle - seems domestic USA flights have seen everything so someone checking in with a stationary farm engine just does not excite them!

At Portland 2000 Leroy had a play with it, and of course for him it ran - is that not always the way? I took it back to Oakland California where I'm living presently and put it onto skids, attached the new fuel tank I got at Portland and made it all ready.

I cleaned the buzz coil and wired everying up nicely. That was the easy part, from then on I've tinkered with it now and again never able to get more than a few pops out of it.

Today (July 13th 2001) with Portland looming I took the whole thing apart and put it back together after cleaning everything. I adjusted a few things and set the timing to what I think was right. Fueled and oiled, on the third tug it popped (which is about as far as I've ever gotten) - on the fourth off it went! Of course, now it will not start again since it stopped but at least I know I'm very close. I think I can safely say it will run at Portland this year.

 
Magneto Lucas RS1 PDF Print E-mail
Written by Paul Pavlinovich   
Wednesday, 07 October 2009 22:09

M-L LISTER MAGNETOS TYPE RS 1

lucas_rs1
These magnetos are of the rotating magnet type, that is, the magnet system revolves, while the less robust parts, such as the winding and condenser, are stationary, and the contact breaker does not rotate, so that these parts are not subjected to mechanical stresses.

Some magnetos are fitted with an ignition switch which provides a means of stopping the engine, while with other types provision is made for the ignition switch to be situated remote from the magneto.

 

ATTENTION NEEDED IN SERVICE

Although a magneto should not be dismantled or interfered with unnecessarily, a little periodical attention to the ignition system is essential if it is to give its best performance.

 

Lubrication.

CAM. The cam is lubricated by a felt pad. About every 100 hours running inspect the pad, and if it is dry, apply a few drops of thin machine oil.
CONTACT BREAKER PIVOT. About every 25 hours running place a very small amount of clean engine oil on the contact breaker pivot. This is accessible when the cotter pill and washers are removed. Do not allow any oil to get on or near the contacts.

 

Cleaning.

The magneto has, in many cases, to work under conditions where it is exposed to dirt and moisture. Although the design of the magneto is such that it cannot gain access to the interior, an accumulation of wet and dirt on the insulating surfaces of the plug, cable and high tension terminal will tend to cause bad starting.

It is advisable therefore to wipe these parts with a clean dry cloth occasionally. Next examine the contact breaker; the contacts must be kept clean. If necessary, polish then with fine carborundum stone or very fine emery cloth, and afterwards wipe with a cloth moistened with petrol. To render the contacts accessible remove the cotter pin and nut securing the contact breaker lever and spring. The lever and spring can now be lifted off their locating pins, taking care not to lose the collars and washers. The metal and fabric washers must be re-fitted in the correct order.

The cam must be clean and free from any deposit; a cloth moistened with petrol should be used for, cleaning.

 

Adjustment.

Check the gap between the contacts by turning the engine over slowly until the contacts are fully opened, and then insert the gauge provided in the gap. If it is correct the gauge should be a sliding fit. Do not alter the setting unless the gap varies considerably from the gauge. If adjustment is necessary, keep the engine in the position to give maximum opening of the contacts and slacken the two locking screws in the contact breaker base (do not slacken the screw nearest the felt pad). Then insert screwdriver in slot provided and lever the bracket carrying the contact until the gap is set to the thickness of the gauge. Afterwards tighten the locking screws. It is advisable to check the gap again to ensure that no movement has taken place.

The correct gap should be .010 to .012 in. (0.25 to 0.3 mm.).

 

Replacement of high Tension Cable.

If, on inspection, the high tension cable shows signs of perishing or cracking, it should be replaced. Replacement cable must be 7 mm. rubber-covered ignition cable.

The method of connecting the cable is as follows: Remove moulded cover by unscrewing the two securing screws, unscrew the cable fixing screw oil the inside of the cover, push the cable, which must be cut off flush to the correct length, well home into its terminal and then tighten the screw, which will pierce the insulation to make contact with the cable core.

 

TIMING.

The magneto has been correctly timed by the engine makers before despatch, and should not be interfered with unnecessarily. Should it, however, be necessary to re-time the magneto, the procedure stated in the engine instruction book must be adopted.

 

Sparking Plug.

The plug electrodes burn away slightly in service, and thus in time the gap length increases. Occasionally examine and clean them, adjusting them if necessary to the right setting. The gap between the points should be normally .020 in. (.5 mm.), and should never exceed .025 in. (.6 mm.).

 

LOCATION AND REMEDY OF FAULTS

If a failure of the ignition is suspected, unless the cause is at once apparent, the reader is strongly recommended to proceed in accordance with the following routine, which should quickly enable him to locate the trouble.

If misfiring occurs, either the plug lead or the plug may be at fault. An examination of the high tension cable may reveal the fault; the rubber may show signs of perishing or cracking; it will not last for ever. If a spare plug is at hand, it may be substituted, or if it is merely the gap that is too large, it may be adjusted (see page 3). Missing with full throttle is sometimes due to the plug gaps being- too wide. Bad plug insulation is sometimes caused through sooting, and occasionally may be remedied by washing the plug. out with petrol.

It is sometimes recommended to remove the plug and, allowing the body to rest on the cylinder head, to observe whether a spark occurs at the points when the engine is turned by hand.

If the fault is not yet apparent, remove the contact breaker cover, and with the engine slowly turned by hand, examine the action of the contact breaker rocker arm; it is possible that the arm is not answering to its control spring, and is remaining permanently open as the cam is rotated. If this appears to be so, remove the contact breaker lever as described on earlier, and examine the pin on which the lever works. If necessary, clean the pin with fine emery cloth, wiping away all grit and moistening with grease, before replacing the lever. No trace of grease should be left anywhere near the contacts after this has been done.

If the magneto has recently been replaced, it is possible that it may have been timed incorrectly. Timing is by no means a simple matter to remedy, and it is advisable to have it done by a skilled mechanic.

If, after exhausting the above scheme of inspection, there is still any doubt or difficulty about the ignition system, it is little use continuing the examination. The magneto should not be further dismantled, but returned to the Works or nearest Service Depot.

 
Hicks Marine Engine PDF Print E-mail
Written by Paul Pavlinovich   
Wednesday, 07 October 2009 22:07
This is a Hicks Marine engine mounted on the chassis of a 1915 White Fire Truck. I saw this engine at the Quartzsite 2002 "Main Event" in Nevada, USA when I was stationed in California. It is a fascinating engine.

hicks-marine
Hicks Marine Engine
The engine was manufactured somewhere around 1927 to 1932. It is three cylinder, four cycle with overhead valves. The engine has a 6" bore and a 7" stroke. It is a 9.7 litre (594 cubic inch) displacement. It peaks at 27 H.P. at 500 rpm. It uses a low tension magneto and ignitors for ignition. It is water cooled. To vary the speed, the position of the intack rocker arm positions is altered with a handle.

The subject of this engine came up recently when Lauren Williams This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it mailed me with:

Ahoy Paul!

I think that if you look really closely at the Hicks engine in your
Quartzite site that you'll see that it's a three cylinder engine (even
more exotic). Notice the three branches on the intake manifold (a four
cylinder Hicks has two carburetors, each serving two cylinders). I can
also count six push rods, two per cylinder. Along with the overhead
valves, another of the very modern aspects of the Hicks was that they
had roller tappet cam followers (starting in 1910!)

For a little more on Hicks Engines, have a look at the website http://community.webtv.net/LaurenMWilliams/RichardsonBay
I replied,
Many engines had roller tappet cam followers (known today as roller rockers) - take a look at the Fairbanks Morse range of large engines for example (eg. the type R and RE engines).
and received back some more good info...
The rollers in the Hicks are a little different than those that we call "roller rockers" in a High Performance Chevy etc.. The rollers in the Hicks are at the bottom of the pushrod, against the cam lobes not riding on the top of the valve stem. I bet there are roller cam followers on modern engines too. I know that some single overhead cam engines have used them.

Hicks engines had no patent on good ideas. I've worked with Washington and Atlas Diesels that showed as much sophistication, but those were later engines.

The engineers that put many of the successful early gas engines together had plenty of smarts and experience in steam. I figure that folks that could figure out and understand the "Joy", "Marshall", "Corless" and "Cammed, Adjustable Cutoff Poppet" valve gears for steam engines had the details of what they could do with the metallurgy of their time and swift ideas about mechanical linkages down cold.

I find the Hicks engines a joy because they show that my father and I weren't the first smart guys. There were a few before us and there'll be some after us. It takes off some of the pressure that say's that we have to solve all the worlds problems ourselves.

How's that for a little social philosophy and self engrandizement (sp?) mixed in with esoteric engine info. Harumph!

Lauren

 
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