Submitted by Peter Scales 
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1.  Remove Crankcase Door and fill the connecting rod troughs with lubricating oil of the correct quality.
2.  Using engine oil in oil can, well oil connecting rod big end through the holes provided.
3.  Open Oil Filler Cover.
4.  Fill sump with oil to within one inch of the top.
5.  Turn Engine over by hand until oil is delivered through the three oil pipes inside the crankcase on to the main bearings.
6.  Replace Crankcase Door.

"To Start Engine"  (all models)    

1. See that the valve lifter stud is underneath the exhaust valve tappet.
2. Turn Governor Lever Handle downwards.
3. Lift Overload Pawl to allow governor lever to move to maximum position.  This Pawl will return to Normal as soon as engine starts.
4. Screw the compression ratio changeover Valve(s) inwards tight on to seat.
5. Place the starting handle on the engine crankshaft, and turn smartly. When a good speed has been obtained on the flywheel, pull valve lifter stud from under exhaust valve tappet when the engine should immediately fire. On multi-cylinder engines the other stud should be pulled out immediately after.
6. As son as the engine has attained its normal speed, open the compression ratio changeover valve by screwing the hand wheel(s) outwards until it (they) come(s) to a stop.
7. NOTE.  When Changeover Valve is screwed in [it beds] against seating at A Fig. 3; when screwed out, against seating at B.  These seatings should be kept free from carbon.  This can be done by turning valve hand wheel backwards and forwards once or twice before leaving in final position, tight up.

[For lightly loaded engines (1/3 load or less) it may be advantageous to run on low compression for reasons of less smoke.]

"To Stop" (all models)
Push up Governor-Control Lever.

If frost is probable, drain cylinder jacket, also water circulating pump if fitted.